Bordeaux is best known as France's wine HQ. But over the past decade, this wonderful old metropolis that's 10 times smaller than Paris has been enjoying a new lease of life thanks to huge investment in culture and transport – that includes an impressive wine museum. Eve Jackson travels to this UNESCO-listed city to discover its buzzing arts scene with a visit to the Cité du Vin and a tour of the regenerated banks of the Garonne river.