If you've been taught to cook your peas just until they're bright green and fresh-tasting, you're about to get schooled. We know a guy with a pea-encrusted axe to grind. Guest: Francis Lam of The Splendid Table.

MUSHY PEAS

Adapted from Jamie Oliver

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 small onion, chopped

1/4 cup fresh mint leaves

1 pound frozen peas (preferably not petite peas)

2 tablespoons water

2 tablespoons butter

salt and pepper

In a saucepan, heat the olive oil over medium heat. Add the onion and cook until translucent but not browned, 2 to 3 minutes. Add the mint and peas and cook until the peas begin to lose their frosty tinge. Add the water, cover, and simmer until the peas are army green, 8 to 12 minutes. Transfer to a food processor, add the butter and salt and pepper to taste, and process to just shy of smooth. Serve hot.

Yield: 4 servings

Special Guest: Francis Lam.

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